I am trying out some new Digitalis purpurea 'Camelot' Foxglove

Camelot seed bred by Goldsmith Seeds is available as individual colors (cream, lavender, rose and white) or as a mixture from various seed distributors.



Description

Digitalis purpurea ‘Camelot’ is the first Foxglove F1 hybrid which will yield more first and second year blooms and it has added superiority in crop uniformity and strength. Although most Foxglove is planted in shady areas, ‘Camelot’ can be grown in sunny areas with adequate moisture and lower temperatures. In late spring or early summer 'Camelot' will send up flower stalks 3 to 4 feet high and will be laden with beautiful tubular flowers that have speckled throats. The flowers are a mix of colors in shades of Rose, White, Lavender, and Cream. This is a gorgeous addition to any perennial border. Digitalis purpurea ‘Camelot’ will reach 42-48" tall with a 24-30" spread at maturity.





Hardiness: USDA Zones 4-8
Plant Use: Flowering Perennial
Exposure: Full Sun to Part Sun
Water Requirements: Medium

Searching for Lambs

As I went out one May morning,
One May morning betime,
I met a maid, from home had stray'd
Just as the sun did shine.

What makes you rise so soon, my dear,
Your journey to pursue?
Your pretty little feet they tread so sweet,
Strike off the morning dew.

I'm going to feed my father's flock,
His young and tender lambs
That over hill and over dales
Lie waiting for their dams.

O stay! O stay! you handsome maid,
And rest a moment here,
For there is none but you alone,
That I do love so dear.

How gloriously the sun doth shine,
How pleasant is the air,
I'd rather rest on my true love's breast
Than any other where.

For I am thine and thou art mine;
No man shall uncomfort thee;
We'll join our hands in wedded bands
And married we will be.

The Watersons, Country Life!

I like to rise when the sun she rises
Early in the morning
I like to hear them small birds singing
Merrily upon the laylum
And hurrah for the life of a country boy
And to ramble in the new-mown hay

In spring we sow at the harvest mow
And that is how the seasons round they go
But if all the times if choose I may
't would be rambling through the new-mown hay

In winter when the sky is grey
We hedge and ditch our times away
But in the summer when the sun shines gay
We go rambling through the new-mown hay

Preventing Pasture Bloat in Sheep

This article first appeared in The Working Border Collie, Inc. Jan/Feb in 1997

by Mike Neary
Extension Sheep Specialist
Purdue UniversityBloat can be a sudden and lethal occurrence for sheep. Often, unless the livestock is being monitored closely, the first symptom one notices is dead or distressed animals.

Pasture bloat (or green legume bloat) is caused by increased pressure by the ruminal contents. Pasture bloat is usually a build-up of trapped gas caused by the failure of the animal to undergo normal eructation. Gas production in the rumen normally consists of primarily CO2 and CH4 produced through feedstuff fermentation. Under normal conditions, ruminants have a predictable sequence of eructation cycles, whereby, gas that is produced is released to the environment. When an animal is experiencing pasture bloat, ruminal conditions are such that a stable froth is produced in the rumen. This froth then "layers" on top of the ruminal contents (mostly liquid) and prevents the gas bubbles from rising to the top and dispersing their contents. This could be analogous to taking a drinking straw and blowing air into a glass of liquids and seeing the air bubbles rise to the top and bursting. Under pasture bloat conditions, the bubbles cannot burst, thus, a build-up of gas and pressure. Furthermore, the froth produced in a bloat situation can block the cardia and prevent normal eructation and release of gas through the esophagus.

Pasture bloat is often brought on by a rapid intake of immature, highly nutritious green legumes (alfalfa or clovers). These plants, when in a vegetative state, contribute high levels of ruminally degradable protein, high levels of carbohydrates and are digested quite rapidly. This causes a drop in the pH of the rumen, an increase in gas production and a binding of protein molecules into a surface film over the ruminal contents. These events contribute to the production of froth, and subsequently, trapped gas.

There are some legumes that are considered to be less of a bloat problem than others. Birdsfoot trefoil is less likely to cause bloat than alfalfa and many types of clovers, not because it does not have a high protein content, but because the rate of digestion is considerably slower. Also, grasses do not usually cause bloat, because the protein content is lower than legumes.

Prevention and Treatment

As with most sheep health problems, prevention is the key in controlling bloat. There are a number of management techniques one can use to reduce the likelihood of pasture bloat in sheep.

When turning sheep onto lush, vegetative pasture with a high legume content, try to time the placement when the dew is gone from the grass and try to fill them up on long-stem hay with a high grass content. This will result in them consuming less of the green forage at first because of physical fill and the time of day.

Try to avoid a feast and famine routine of grazing management. Once sheep become adapted to a diet and are not experiencing bloat problems, try to stick to a predictable grazing management system to encourage even, regular consumption of forage and not a grazing pattern of engorgement.

Early in the grazing season or whenever sheep are turned to a new pasture with significant legume content, check them closely a couple hours after turnout as this is when bloat symptoms occur.

If bloat is an ongoing problem in a flock, reducing the amount of legume in the pasture is an option. However, this is often at the expense of pasture productivity, stocking capacity and animal performance. Another option would be to incorporate a legume known to be a non-bloating specie.

Poloxalene is a nonionic surfactant that helps prevent foam production in the rumen. It is the main constituent in the bloat preventive mineral blocks made for cattle. Poloxalene feeding to sheep at a rate of two to three grams/head/day can be effective in preventing bloat. If cattle bloat block blocks are used, take care they do not contain high enough levels of copper to cause copper toxicity in sheep.

Treat bloated sheep with care. The build-up of pressure in the rumen can actually cause a partial collapse of the lungs. Furthermore, blood from the body is forced out of the body cavity to the extremities and can cause a form of acidosis. Thus, stressing these animals complicates the situation.

If animals can be caught, use a stomach tube to help release free ruminal gas. Also, mild agitation of ruminal contents can aid in the release of the trapped gas bubbles. Mineral or vegetable oils can be used as antifoaming agents and help release gas. Treatment with commercially available anti-bloating agents can also be done at this time.

Some people will actually use a rumenotomy (puncturing the rumen - located high on the left side of the lumbar region in severe bloat cases) in severe, life-threatening situations. This procedure is not for the weak stomached, as the pressure will result in the expulsion of a significant amount of the rumen contents. Also, the area will need to be cleaned and sutured after the rumenotomy is performed.

There does seem to be somewhat of a genetic propensity to bloat susceptibility. Some breeds or lines within breeds do appear to be more susceptible to bloat. Thus, it may be practical to cull individuals that have a history of bloat problems.

Legumes are a wonderful grazing and hay forage. When harvested at a correct maturity level they supply high levels of protein, energy, minerals and vitamins to ruminants. However, the bloat potential of these forages is a downside to them. Planned management can reduce the potential bloat problem and enable producers to realize increased animal and pasture productivity with legum

The Foxglove

The Foxglove, Digitalis purpurea is a large, showy plant — a striking addition to any shade garden. They look best grouped toward the back of a bed, where their blossoms will brighten an otherwise gloomy spot. Flowers in shades of white, yellow, pink, rose, lavender and purple grow on spikes that vary in height depending on the variety.

The Foxglove is a wonderful, statuesque plant; much appreciated in cottage garden situations, where their elegant stance towering above the range of annuals, biennials and perennials adds beauty and height to the rich pattern of the garden. These tall erect plants, bearing long tubular flowers are certainly well worth growing.

On the inside of each flower, conspicuous spots of crimson, burgundy or chocolate, are scattered in the throat. In all cases the individual flowers are about the size and shape of a thimble. The origin of the botanical name, Digitalis, is based upon the Latin word digitatus for finger. Perhaps this is because the thimble-like blooms fit a human finger in the way a thimble does.

Digitalis purpurea is a biennial, seeding freely when happy. Since it does not produce flowers (nor, therefore, seeds) until its second year, you must plant them two years running to have Foxgloves every summer.

Seeds can lie dormant for years if conditions are unfavourable — if there is inadequate light or moisture.

Most Foxgloves thrive in light shade. D. purpurea loves to be cool, but Mediterranean species need sun. Although foxgloves prefer lighter soils, they can survive on heavy clay with the addition of good compost to the top 10cm of soil. The fibrous roots spread out making vast mats to support the flower spikes, so mulch well to retain moisture.

If you are collecting your own seed, sow immediately when fresh — and thinly, as overcrowded seedlings are prone to fungal diseases. It thrives best in dappled shade and is perfectly adapted to cope in sites where light varies throughout the day.

It is an invaluable asset where gardens are separated from each other by hedges, fences or walls — perimeters are the most awkward areas of the garden but exactly the sort of site this plant would choose for itself.

For readers in the USA: Foxgloves thrive in Zones 4-10, except in Florida and along the Gulf Coast.

CHOOSING VARIETIES

Digitalis purpurea

This is the only true British native and is also the biggest and most impressive foxglove, sometimes reaching 1.8m high. It has soft, downy leaves and a strong stem that can carry hundreds of tubular flowers. The buds are white, whilst the flowers are a pinky-purple with dramatic speckles and clusters of short hairs in the throat. A biennial or at best a short-lived perennial, it is best to grow annually. Foxgloves self-seed readily, so an annual show of these impressive flowers is easy to achieve.

Digitalis purpurea excelsior

Within the excelsior group, there is a wide range of pastel-coloured flowers. The flowers grow all around the stem and come in a variety of colours. The compact group of the Foxy Group rarely exceeds 75cm high. There is a wild sub-species of Digitalis purpurea, heywoodii which has silvery leaves and pale ivory flowers. Digitalis purpurea Giant Spotted Group is incredibly eye-catching because of the large patches of dark purple in the flowers’ throats. All are best grown annually.

Digitalis grandiflora

This plant closely resembles Digitalis purpurea. It has deep cream-coloured flowers whose throats are streaked with distinctive rusty markings. It can also have bright yellow flowers and appears in the early summer. Again this is a biennial or short-lived perennial.

Digitalis laevigata

This plant is great in midsummer as it produces spires of brownish-yellow flowers with a white lower lip and speckled interior. It is more of a perennial than other species, but again it is worth collecting seed and cultivating.

Digitalis lutea

This is a beautiful foxglove with slender stems of pale yellow flowers, which start in early summer though are sadly relatively short lived. Perennial.




Digitalis x mertonensis

Quite understandably a very popular foxglove with its large dusky pink flowers, though the stems are slightly shorter than those of Digitalis purpurea. Despite it being a hybrid, it still produces parent replicating seed. It is widely appreciated as a colourful perennial.

Digitalis parviflora

A great foxglove for the early summer, with dark orange-brown densely packed flowers along the whole length of the flower spike. Perennial.

GROWING FOXGLOVES

Foxgloves like to grow in a soil that is both moist and rich, ideally with a pH of 6 to 7.5. If you prefer to start growing foxglove seedlings indoors first then they should be prepared about ten weeks before they are due to be transplanted into the garden in late autumn, a few weeks before the first frost of winter. Members of Digitalis usually take about two or three weeks to germinate at 15 to 18oC.

If sowing directly into the garden, plant foxglove seeds toward the rear of your flower bed, since the plants grow quite tall. They do best in partial shade as long as they get regular water during dry periods in summer. Clear the area that you will be planting of leaves and debris and rough up the soil with the hand rake to a depth of about 3cm.

Space out the seeds so that they aren’t planted too closely. The seeds are tiny, and you should try to plant no more than one or two seeds in a 7,5cm area. This will give you a dense growth of seedlings. When they have grown about 5cm tall you should thin them out to one plant per 20cm to 30cm. Transplant the seedlings that you take out to other locations if desired.

Cover the seeds with soil and press down the soil so that the seeds have good contact. Water the area. Keep the soil damp for proper germination but don’t over water because it could make the seeds rot.

Saving seeds is an easy process of waiting until the bloom has gone and the seed pod turns brown. Save these seeds and plant elsewhere or let the plant regenerate itself. To have plants in the same area year after year, let the seeds fall where they may.

Foxglove a distinctive plant to use as a backdrop for other flowers, among flowering shrubs, or as elegant specimen plants in the summer garden.

In flower borders, plant Foxgloves in the back of the bed with Shasta Daisies or Peonies in the foreground. Perennials that have round flower heads provide good contrast to Foxglove’s vertical lines.

In naturalistic settings, Foxglove is right at home, able to thrive at the base of old stumps and rotting logs. Planted with Ferns along a woodland walk, Foxglove will reseed and bloom in colourful colonies for years.

The best companions for Foxglove are flowers and plants that complement its tall, narrow form and dramatic blooms.

Combine classic cut flowers, such as Sweet William, Snapdragons and Roses, with the strawberry-pink Merton Foxglove.

Summer-blooming annuals, such as Petunias, Geraniums and Alyssum, thrive in the same soil and share the same bloom time as Foxgloves. Combine bright annuals to vibrate against the white blooms of the Foxglove Alba.

Adding a general purpose fertiliser once a month will result in bigger, fuller blooms. Apply a thin layer of compost each spring, followed by a 5cm layer of mulch to retain moisture and control weeds.

Stake tall varieties to keep them upright. Remove the central flower spike after flowering to encourage other side shoots to form and produce more flowers.

PESTS AND DISEASES

There are few insect and disease problems. If problems occur, treat early with organic or chemical insect repellents and fungicide.

WARNING!

The leaves are toxic. If you have young children or pets, you might want to steer clear of this flower. The poisonous substance in the leaves is called Digitalis. You may recognize this as a chemical sometimes used in the treatment of heart disease.




Very hardy thanks to:
http://gardeningisezee.com/?p=387

Gardening Made Easy

Bishop's Weed

Do not plant this ground cover unless its some place you really don't mind if it takes over. It can make you crazy as it spreads like wildfire. I got this huge patch from one plant that came stuck to the root of a fern my Mother gave me. The Fern did not take hold but the Bishop's weed did! The varigated version is very pretty and called "Snow on the Mountain". It has its uses but it really is a pest in many gardens. Be careful if you put it in for sure. Never mix it in your flower beds or herb beds.


Bishops Weed was introduced in to gardens in England during the Middle Ages by the Romans and used as a pot herb, then because of it’s vigor, escaped to the wild where it made itself at home on the edge of woodlands and in waste places. It was known by many names which included the following: Herb Gerard, (After St. Gerard who cured gout with it.) Bishop’s Wort, Bishop’s Elder, Dog Elder, Dwarf Elder, Ground Elder, Goat’s Foot, Goatweed, Farmer’s Plague, Garden Plague, Ground Ash, Pot-Ash, White Ash, Jack Jumpabout, English Masterwort, Wild Masterwort, Pigweed, Eltroot, Cummin Seed, Cummin Royal, Herb William. Bull-Wort.

It belongs to the Umbelliferae family, a large hardy herbaceous clan that shares the common characteristic of having an umbrella shaped flower. Relatives include: Queen Anne’s Lace, Angelica, Dill, Caraway, Fennel, Parsley, Chervil, Hemlock and Parsnip to name a few. Its scientific name Aegopodium is from Greek: aix: goat & podin: little foot. Podagraria is from Greek for gout. Historically it has also been used medicinally for bee stings, burns, wounds, etc., as well as treatment of gout.

In The Herbal by John Gerard who made this comment in 1633:

Herbe Gerard groweth of it selfe in gardens without setting or sowing, and is so fruitful in his increase, that where it once hath taken root, it will be hardly got out againe, spoiling and getting every year more ground, to the annoying of better herbs.

Yesterday I moved Iris and Hostas